The Arctic and Antarctica have always been on my dream list. The magnificent scenery and the chance to encounter wildlife up close are travel experiences that are hard to replace. Some friends joke that the United States has huge zoos where you can see many animals at once, so why travel thousands of miles to the polar regions? But what I want to see has never been just the animals themselves. I want to see the places where they actually live.
I want to share my Arctic trip from late June. From deciding to go, booking and paying for the expedition, redeeming points for business-class flights, and finally departing, the entire process took only about one week. The polar expedition itself lasted eleven days, and from the beginning I was specifically looking for a last-minute ticket.
Deciding to Go Within One Week
This trip was with Quark Expeditions, a polar expedition company I have always liked. Because I was traveling alone, I contacted a Quark specialist directly for pricing and asked about both single cabins and shared-cabin options.
Shared cabins were available for two or three guests. I worked with Matt, a specialist based in South Africa, and we spoke many times by video and phone. Because the departure date was so close, he suggested an interesting option: I could book a two-person shared cabin, but with only a few days left, the chance of Quark finding another roommate was low. He asked whether I wanted to give it a try.
It worked. I ended up in a balcony cabin for about US$11,000, roughly half the usual price. At the time, a three-person shared cabin was quoted at about US$7,500, but it did not have a balcony.
The original price also included Hilton accommodations near the airport in Finland for the first and last nights. I chose to book my own hotel, which reduced the price by about US$500. The meeting point was Helsinki Airport. From there, Quark arranged a charter flight to Svalbard in northern Norway, where we boarded the ship.
Business-Class Flights: Last-Minute Award Tickets
Because the trip came together so quickly, I booked most of my international flights with miles.
Outbound: 57,500 American Airlines miles plus about US$753 in taxes and fees, flying British Airways and Finnair: SEA → LHR → HEL.
Return: 50,000 ANA miles plus about US$952 in taxes and fees, flying Lufthansa: HEL → MUC → SEA.
One of the biggest challenges of a last-minute polar trip is not necessarily the expedition ticket—it is making the international flights, hotels before and after the voyage, and meeting time all fit together. Having points across different airline alliances gives you much more flexibility when arranging a trip at the last minute.
Ocean Explorer: My Arctic Expedition Ship
Quark specializes in polar expeditions. For this trip I sailed aboard Ocean Explorer, a Norwegian-designed ship built in China. The ship has eight decks, with the areas below Deck 3 primarily reserved for staff.
The cabin was beautifully designed and the bed was very comfortable. Breakfast and lunch were themed buffets, while dinner was mainly à la carte with appetizers, entrées, and desserts. Standard alcoholic drinks were included in the fare unless you ordered something especially expensive.
Quark also provides each guest with a brand-new bright yellow expedition parka that you can take home after the trip. It has two detachable layers: a waterproof outer shell and an insulated inner layer. If you get warm while hiking, there are straps inside that let you carry the parka on your back like a backpack.
I usually wore just one wool layer underneath the parka, and that was enough for me. Each guest was also loaned a pair of tall boots for shore landings and Zodiac excursions.
Spa, Sauna, Pool, and Library Onboard
There is a small spa onboard where you can book facials and massages. I tried both and really enjoyed them. Appointments were available until around 7 p.m.
I especially loved the sauna. Its large windows look directly out over the ocean, and sometimes I would go straight from the pool into the sauna to warm up. The ship also has a 24-hour gym, an outdoor hot tub, and a swimming pool. The pool area stayed open until around 10 p.m.
There is also a small library with snacks, drinks, and a coffee machine available for guests to help themselves.
My Favorite Place: The Deck 8 Observation Area
My favorite place on the ship was the outdoor area on Deck 8. There is a small restaurant and an observation area, along with several types of binoculars available to borrow for free—just not to take home.
If a polar bear appeared onshore or near the sea ice and we could not disembark for safety reasons, this was an excellent place to watch. I also brought my own binoculars so I could keep them around my neck during Zodiac rides and hikes.
Twice a Day: Zodiac Cruises and Shore Excursions
Weather permitting, we usually went out once in the morning and once in the afternoon. Sometimes we cruised by Zodiac to look for wildlife; other times we went ashore for hikes. Each outing lasted about two to three hours, and we also visited historical sites such as abandoned mining areas and scientific research stations.
Each evening included different polar-themed presentations or entertainment such as singing and dancing. If a daytime landing had to be canceled because of a polar bear sighting, heavy snow, poor visibility, or another reason, the expedition team would arrange alternative onboard activities.
Safety procedures were very strict. Armed guides were positioned at the front and back of each hiking group. Before guests went ashore, staff first scanned the surrounding area with binoculars and allowed activities to begin only after confirming it was safe.
Polar Bears, Reindeer, Arctic Foxes, and Walruses
We saw many animals on this trip: polar bears, reindeer, Arctic foxes, walruses, and many kinds of birds. Seeing them in their actual polar environment felt completely different from seeing animals in a zoo.
In late June, the Arctic does not really have a sunset; it stays light almost around the clock. Although the temperature was still cold, the summer season made many activities easier to carry out.
Polar Plunge in Near-Freezing Water
Of course, there was also the Polar Plunge. The seawater was around 0°C (32°F), and more than 50 of the 108 passengers actually jumped in. The average guest age was about 55; the youngest was around 12 and the oldest was 78.
Professional photographers documented the journey, and the photos and videos were excellent. After the trip, guests could download them for free. I especially appreciated this service because during something like the Polar Plunge, there is obviously no way to jump into the water and take good photos of yourself at the same time.
If You Are Interested in Quark
If you are interested in traveling with Quark, I highly recommend Matt, the specialist who helped me. He was very attentive and patient with all my questions—we even spent more than an hour on a video call one day. Because my trip was so last-minute and many details were uncertain, he did his best to confirm everything, add my requests to the booking, and proactively suggest ways to save money.
If you are traveling solo like I was and feel a little unsure about a shared cabin, you can ask him directly about the available options.
If there is something you truly want to do—something you think about while eating and even while falling asleep—sometimes it feels as though the whole world gives you a little push. Take that first step, and you may discover that it is not as scary as you imagined. :)
